Gulnoor... Sue Mue Spring Summer 2019

The inspiration could arrive from anywhere, but to give it a unique expression is the manoeuvring of a gifted creative brain. An expression that is as much about traditions, as it is about love. An expression that is not restricted to the heritage or craft that it has been inspired from. But also, where the two are connected on a sublime level.

Gulnoor is about love, about evolving, about self-expression and exploration. A discovery of the beauty we are born with, the wonderment that we grow into. Bespoke womenswear label Sue Mue’s Spring Summer 2019 collection is a vision inspired by Kashmir’s shawl traditions. But it is also an apt tribute to the woman through the ethereal land that no Urdu couplets, no ghazals, no novels and novellas can encapsulate. An emotion that is best felt with the eyes and the heart... Just like love.

Dreamy pastels, fluid gossamer handwoven fabrics and exquisite workmanship of the needle and thread have brought to life a collection that takes a page out of Kashmir’s rich folklore and converts it into a spring story, when the valley is a bright and beautiful expanse shrouded by the luminosity of vibrant flowers. Warm colours seen in handwoven Jamavars and kani shawls are translated into a summer fresh mood board using pastel hues such as lemon green, powder blue, ivory, cloud grey, rose pink and daffodil yellow.
 The fabrics are light, breezy and flirty giving the collection a dreamy appeal. While the pret wear comprises of smart silhouettes embellished with intricate embroidery inspired by Kashmir’s Sozni and other traditional needlework, the bridal wear is about light lehngas for the summer bride who would want to float like a cloud looking like an angelic vision on her special day.

Says Mohita Gujral, the creative director of Sue Mue, the bespoke luxury label that was established in 1968, “Gulnoor takes from the springtime in the Kashmir valley and its promise of new beginnings. The soft, charismatic collection draws upon patterns used in traditional Kashmir shawls, evocative of blooming buds on the Himalayan mountainside. Using a soothing colour palette, the trousseau wear, couture and prêt collections evoke charming stories of Kashmiri lore, when Arabian sultans and Persian begums giddily sought the ethereal richness of pashmina.”

With a focus on breezy silhouettes, the collection comprises saris, short kalidar kurtas, long elegant anarkalis, western dresses, crop tops, jumpsuits, Pakistani suits with asymmetrical hems, and free flowy tunics paired with palazzos and shararas. For the summer bride, the collection offers delicate lehengas and queenly ghararas to soothe the eyes on sunny days, and sultry saris to sparkle up those midsummer nights.

Favoured for their predilection for timeless classics and subtle elegance, Sue Mue has been one of the most sought-after bespoke labels in the city ever since Narinder Kaur Mohan, Mohita’s mother, set up shop in 1968. “My mother had a flair for fashion like no other. She just instructed the tailor instinctively and things were done,” says Mohita.
Narinder Mohan loved hand-crafting beautiful dresses for her two young daughters, and in no time she was asked to create clothes by family and friends. It was in response to this overwhelming demand that Narinder, set up Sue Mue (hinting on the dexterity of needlework). It was Narinder’s flair for curating the season’s best colour and fabric, understanding different body types and her aesthetic finesse, that made the brand the most respected and trusted among the fashion-conscious women of Delhi, as well as other parts of the country and abroad.

Gulnoor’s motifs draw heavily from the famed Jamawar shawls of Kashmir. The intricacy of Jamawar shawls finds expression in the paisley and floral embroidery, thread-work, gold and silver zardozi, patch-work, knot-stitch and aari-work. The tiny beadwork give the garments that air of refined opulence. “The fabrics are designed to evoke the freshness of flowers and the airy romance of spring: from handloom cotton and jute, to tulle, silk organza and linen.
The luxuriant heritage of Kashmir finds its way into the threads and embellishments of Gulnoor designed for the woman who is lit up with self-love. Like the Valley in spring, she is irresistible. Like the sun over the mountains, she is divine,” rounds off the designer.

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