Pallavi Jaikishan --- An Era of Floral Fantasies
Sari by Pallavi Jaikishan. Pic by Manoj Kesharwani |
An instrumental rendition of two
popular Bollywood classics cuts into the steady murmur. Aradhana’s Roop tera mastana
and Kati Patang’s Pyar diwana hota hain are the preludes to
couturier Pallavi Jaikishan’s show at the FDCI India Couture Week held recently.
The walks incidentally have also been choreographed on modern romantic ballads
from tinsel town. Romance---an all-pervasive mood that has characterised doyen’s
journey in fashion since 1972. There is but one element conspicuous by its
absence. Music made by her legendary husband, Jaikishan Dayabhai Panchal,
one-half of the famous Shankar-Jaikishan duo that rocked the music charts
before the latter passed away in 1971. Leaving his wife and three young children---Chetan,
Yogesh and Bhiaravi---under a pall of gloom.
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An old portrait of the designer with her musician husband |
“Here, hear this piece I was putting
together for the show. A modern take on Sangam’s
Yeh mera prem patra par kar. If only
I had a touch more time,” Jaikishan’s voice trails off, only to add soon after,
“I’ve used so many of his songs in my shows. They are one of the best memories
in my heart. Whenever he used to compose a new song, we all rejoiced over it.
My children know how to play the piano but none of them ventured into music. If
Jaikishan-ji would be alive, maybe the story would be different,” reminisces
the fashion veteran, known for infusing nostalgic charm into her creations.
Fashion happened to the designer when
the family was still grappling with their loss. Known for her impeccable
dressing sense, Jaikishan channelised her creativity into crafting clothes that
resonated with her sense of style and aesthetics. She opened her studio
Paraphernalia in 1972 in Bombay’s tony Peddar Road and found that her clothes
were flying off the racks even before she could decide the next collection. “It
was a great feeling. The women always wanted me to help them out when they saw
me dressed in a certain way at the film parties and events. I did stand out
amidst the bling and brightness. I enjoyed draping myself in beautifully
embroidered saris in pastel shades. I took them to the tailors and the
karigars. I had a very European choice in colours and embroidery. A sense I
have retained over the years,” she elaborates.
Jaikishan’s creations are infused with
timeless elegance and a charm awash with floral exuberance. “This penchant for
florals has attracted critical flak at times but I never shied away from my
leitmotif. Now, I blend them with other elements. But the main consideration
when I design is to retain a timeless appeal. A confident woman with a great
sense of style should be able to wear the creation even after 20, 30 years.
That is the classicism I maintain in my clothes. Beauty cannot be dated. At
Paraphernalia, we conjured a space selling a charming lifestyle (fashion,
accessories and home décor collectibles) and that is what grabbed the
connoisseur’s attention. We continue doing so.”
In the age of aggressive marketing,
celebrity dressing and social media hullabaloo, Jaikishan maintains that she is
not ready to put herself out that way. “I’m not made like that. Filmmaker
Ismail Merchant, a dear friend as well, used to frequent our house. One day he
offered me a film as a costume designer. But my husband did not want me to be
associated with that world and I respected his wishes. So, you see, I’ve never
gone behind the film limelight. Even when I launched Paraphernalia, sometimes
Jaya (Bachchan) used to drop by and pick something, Sharmila (Tagore) came
often. Mumtaz got married in a sari designed by me. I’ve always believed that
if you do your work well, you will have the applause. In the 80s, my beaded
garments sold from renowned fashion
and lifestyle stores across USA like Saks Fifth Avenue, Lord and Taylor and
Bergdoff Goodman. I also participated regularly in the Dusseldorf Fair. Inadvertantly,
I’ve had the most glamorous leading ladies wear my stuff because they wanted
to. Why run for eyeballs now?”
The conversation keeps lingering on
her film connect. So, how did love happen between Pallavi Mariwala, 14 years
younger to her husband, and the illustrious music director? “Age never
mattered. It never does when you love someone. We used to meet at the CCI
Cricket Grounds where I went with my friends. We used to talk and soon we were
inseparable. Many people ask me whether it irked me that he did not let me get
into fashion earlier. But no. Our lifestyle was such that working wasn’t an
option then. One day he would just come back and say 90 people were arriving
for dinner and I would get down to business. I loved cooking and still do and
saw to it that we were the perfect hosts. I’ve never regretted anything in my
life. And life with my husband was beautiful. I learnt to stay grounded because
of him, the man who was the epitomy of humility even when the cash registers
were ringing because of his work.”
Till date the Jaikishan family feels
the love the music director’s fans have for him. “The number of letters we get,
the amount of royalties… I bought copies of his autobiographies in all the
languages available and send them to his fans when they write to us. It’s all
been a blessing. I never thought of remarrying because he was always there with
us. I plunged headlong into work because I did not want the children to be in a
sad ambience. My work and his memories kept us going. Sometimes, we play his
songs. The music they make today is good. But for us, his works are timeless.
Gold, in fact,” Jaikishan sums up perfectly.
(This feature done by me first appeared the August 2018 edition of The New Indian Express)
Such a beautiful interview. You can just see how much she loves him still and her heart manifests this rose tinted, romantic love in her creations.
ReplyDeleteTotally totally... That aura still exists...
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