The Good-looking at Fisherman's Wharf in Goa
A week back,
while savouring a wholesome joshimath dal (smoked horse gram tempered with
Indian spices) with a methi parantha at
the Park Hotel in Delhi, an old acquaintance remarked how many restaurants
today concentrate more on atmospherics. Sometimes, the drama overshadows the
food. Unless, the victuals are absolutely fantastic. I couldn’t agree more. We cited
some instances where the décor, installations and theatre superseded what
actually landed on our plate and where we satisfied ourselves with what we saw
rather than what we ate. That day, I’m happy to declare, nothing of that sort
happened. The winter menu at Fire was one mean food journey from various parts
of the country focusing on fresh, organic and seasonal produce.
I can’t say
the same about Fisherman’s Wharf at Cavelossim in Goa, where we lunched on Monday.
Don’t get me wrong. I am not going to tear the place apart because I did have a
good time there. But, when I ate the food that I had read so much about, I stopped
believing in all the praises it had garnered on Zomato. Serving authentic Goan
cuisine as well as a bit of Continental and North Indian fare, the food isn’t
the hero of the place. The setting is. But there were the positives that must
be dwelt upon.
Since Goa is
riddled by the notorious taxi mafia, we were referred to a known cabbie by a
dear friend for travelling to Cavelossim from Club Mahindra in Varca, where we
were putting up. We instantly took the bait, little knowing that we would be
paying a whopping Rs 1,300 for 10 kms (up/ down plus waiting time). So yes, it’s
sufficiently proved that travelling within Goa is an expensive affair unless
you scooty it out yourself.
I digress… Fisherman’s
Wharf is quite a romantic setting. Situated on the bank of the River Sal, the
interiors predominantly focus on thatched roofs, large boat installations, clay
urn planters, graffitied walls (full of funny scenes from the Goan diaspora)
and antique Portuguese furniture. The red floor adds to the old-world charm. We
immediately loved what we saw because the interior designer has done a darn
good job. I loved the display of spices and coconut on a huge mortar and
pestle. Rows of colourful boats on the opposite bank made for a serene sight, and
the tot was excited when the birds occasionally came by. The husband ordered
his customary King’s beer and I chose a green apple martini to start the
afternoon with.
Every time I
am in Goa I curse my sea food allergy while am sure the husband silently thanks
his stars that he can doesn’t have to share. This time would be different. The
kid is slowly becoming quite a gourmand himself! So, we ordered a baked crab instantly.
It looked divine on arrival but sadly that cannot be said about the taste.
Lacking proper seasoning, it needed some spiking up. I put a bit in my mouth and
realised that the muddy note had been retained (maybe on purpose) but in
totality the dish was a bit too bland.
We ordered a
honey glazed chicken to be on the safe side, as well as a crispy pork cooked
with toddy. The chicken was soft, juicy and perfectly spiced. After the crab
let down, we really enjoyed the meat. The pork sauce was tangy and spicy and
the pork was crunchy. Maybe a bit too crunchy. But in all, a good starter.
Next up, the
husband went for grilled prawns wrapped in bacon while I wanted a chicken
stuffed with mushrooms as I was curious to find out how the Goans do their continental
food. Also, since I wasn’t in the mood for a Xacuti or a Vindaloo as I had my
fill of both the previous night.
The plating was
impressive when the food arrived. But the chicken breast turned out to be overcooked
and the sauce wasn’t spectacular. The mushroom stuffing was better though. It
has a rustic flavour that saved the dish from sinking. The prawns looked very
appetising in their reddish masala. But as my husband enumerated later, it
lacked a redeeming factor.
We had to
have desserts to salvage the situation. Already disappointed with the mains, we
played it safe. A caramel custard was brought in for the child and he seemed to
enjoy it. We ditched the traditional bebinka and chose a Serradurra (made of
whipped cream and topped generously with crumbed Marie biscuits and an Oreo
cookie). It was surprisingly subtle yet very good.
For a meal
that cost us about Rs 3,700 and for a trip where we felt fleeced by Rs 1,300, I
just wish I was penning a praise instead of talking about a lacklustre meal.
Hope this was more about a fabulous gastronomical experience instead of an occurrence
that we decided not to repeat...
Absolutely on the dot! The crab needed a generous dash of tabasco, salt and pepper and still was not passable: the dish wasn't bland, it wasn't spicy, it had no distinctive flavour, texture or taste; in fact, it was nothing. The bacon wrapped prawns were similarly flat: they looked fantastic but tasted stupid in that there was no hero in the dish. The bacons and the prawns were finished off by the seasoning or the lack of it. The pork, though passable, looked and felt like the average shredded lamb dish you get anywhere across the country. Ironically, the honey chicken --- for which one didn't need to travel 1,600km to the coast --- was the standout dish. Will i visit the Wharf again? Of course, if i get a free lift in a car and if am only thirsty (King's beer) and not hungry :)
ReplyDelete🤐🤐
Delete