The whiff of Purani Dilli
The first thing I noticed when I
walked into Chor Bizarre at Hotel Broadway in Purani Dilli nine
Flooded with wonderful memories when
I entered the new Chor Bizarre at Bikaner House, I had no apprehension about
the food. I knew it would be good. Especially because the menu promised not
just authentic Kashmiri that the brand has made a name for itself in, it also promised
rustic fare from old Delhi tables. The food part was sorted. But I craved the nostalgia
as well.
Surprisingly, this time too, Chor
Bizarre did not disappoint. I walked in to discover the old-world aura retained
with sepia photographs, decadent furniture and bric-a-brac collected from
warehouses stuffed with antique memorabilia. There isn’t any vintage car but everything
about this place is very yesteryear, quintessentially suffused with the languid
unrushed air that we have almost forgotten. I sat down to enjoy the
tranquillity.
And then, with his moustachioed smile
and girth walked out Chef Rajiv Malhotra, leaving me elated and surprised all
at the same time. Immediately I realised that I was in for a glorious
afternoon. The warmth, the candour and his personal touch was unchanged… just
like maybe the ripe old ‘Papaji’ at home.
I start off with a cooling Shikanji
that is completely divorced from the street vendor’s concoction. Every sip is
full of flavour. So is the Imly Mirchi cocktail. The helper brings in the Palak
Patta chaat, an appetiser made of crispy spinach leaves, yoghurt, tamarind and seasoning.
The jimikhand anjeer ke kebab is something I’ve never tasted. Just sweet
enough, it is a buttery delight. While the kurkuri makai is a fun munch, I can’t
wait to dig into the non-vegetarian fare now. The Machhi Methi tikka is
fantastic. It has just the right amount of methi flavour so that the fish is
not overpowered. Murgi se pehle is a clever chargrilled egg with cheese. The
Kashmiri kanti kebab is an ode to the fiery meat starters that the locals love
on a chilly evening. A generous helping of cheese makes the Gazab ka tikka a
drooling delight.
Almost full, I implore ‘Papaji’ to
send tasting portions of the main course. The feast begins with the Ulte Tawa
ka parantha and Khatta meat. I must mention here that I’ve tasted nothing like
this mutton before. It is sweet, tangy and carries an aftertaste of desi ghee.
It’s an absolutely gorgeous rendition.
You might ask why there is no
highlight of Kashmiri food so far in this review. That’s because Chor Bizarre
has extended its repertoire from being a place for just Kashmiri fare to giving
the food connoisseur a taste of delicacies that thrives in Purani Dilli. That
is the decadence they are serving. But Kashmiri food lovers can still opt for
the authentic Goshtaba, Rista, Tabak Maas and Roganjosh, apart from other authentic
delights.
Back to more food then. Next up is
the Aloo Bukhara Korma, a delicate lamb preparation flavoured with dried plums
and a lovely saffron pulao. While this is a meat eater’s paradise, vegetarians
will be spoilt for choice as well. Do try the Khatte Baingan, Nadru Yakhni or
Laal Paneer, dishes popular with Kashmiri Pandits.
Barely able to move a muscle after
all the gorging I promise myself to be back to sample more from
the exhaustive
menu. But, without a dessert, my spirit wouldn’t call it a day. So, I zero in
on the stuffed gulab jamun and phirni…
The proof of the pudding is in the
eating, they say. Maybe, you should now stop reading and book your table at
Chor Bizarre at the earliest…
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