Gourmet Ghar ka Khana

When I put that spoonful of yellow dal tempered with asafoetida into my mouth, I somehow

couldn’t contain the rush of nostalgia hitting me. I turned to Ankur Bhatia, whose brainchild is the brilliant batch of Roseate properties and said, ‘Oh yes, this is ghar ka khana at its best!’

Now, you might say why visit a fancy eatery for what you eat at home every day? I’d say, because Kheer at Roseate House is serving it up with dollops of twist. And love! Just like how ma does it.

Kheer is not only a beautiful restaurant but it oozes warmth. And a comfortable vibe. At the preview dinner, we tucked into some of the best I’ve ever tasted from North Indian cuisine. The crunchy onion bhajia dusted with ground spices, the hare matar ki tikki served with a mango relish, there were innumerable morsels worth talking about. Simple, fussfree but full of flavour, the food at this Indian fine-diner at Roseate House is a delectable trip down memory lane.

Designed by Tokyo based Noriyoshi Muramatsu, the restaurant, with a seating capacity of 250 guests, is divided into the main dining area, the live kitchen, the bar and the lounge. Though you have the Indian touches in the interiors, such as the temple bells hanging over the dining table, the colourful appliqued upholstery and hand engraved wooden ceilings, peppy English music lend a global vibe to the place. Indian and ethnic to the core in terms of food and décor, the space celebrates India without getting too in the face. Inclusion of the Robata grill and a live kitchen are other aspects of how experimental Kheer will be getting with execution.

Back to the food, curated and crafted by executive chef Anuj Wadhawan. Our interest is piqued

when we are politely asked to help ourselves from the plates served on the table. Retaining an air of informal yet sophisticated eating, guests are encouraged to share the food amidst happy banter. We like.

The tasting commences with onion fritters, fit for rainy evenings with a cup of masala tea. Followed by bite-sized portions of pizza naan, we wait for the fancier appetisers to arrive. And arrive they do, with a flourish.

The Machhalee is a zingy delight. Leaving a mustardy aftertaste in the mouth, the tuna’s rawness is countered by the munch in the tomato bits. The murg malai tikka is black in colour, thanks to the charcoal touch, but tastes just as it should…yum. The Chukandar chilgoza ki tikki marries beetroot and pine nuts immaculately for vegetarians.

Showcasing the versatility of the Robata grill, the next dishes are winners, especially Gucchi (morels stuffed with wild mushrooms, grated khoya and cheddar cheese), served with pepper chutney. We can hardly stop at one helping. The piece de resistance is the jheenga machhalee, a tawa grilled lobster that looks too good to eat. The orange glazed skin cracks open to dish out the most succulent lemony and buttery flesh. Bliss!

Overwhelmed and sated after the snack display, the main course is homely yet delicious. While the dal makhni and maa ki dal are the usual buttery versions, we give thumbs up to the yellow dal. Every spoonful bursting with flavour, this lentil preparation paired with either rice or roti, is something you’ll savour after a tiring day. The nadru palak, a Kashmiri spinach dish combined with lotus stem, is noteworthy, too.

The Awadhi chicken biriyani is an aromatic delight as compared to its subtler vegetarian cousin, the

Kashmiri pulao. This is a meat lovers haven. Do try the traditional barra kabab, which is New Zealand lamb chops served with tomato garlic chutney. And if you are a pescatarian then choose the meen pollichathu without a doubt.

Our overstuffed avatars promptly decide that the restaurant merits another visit in order that we can sample more from the exhaustive menu. But since a meal is incomplete without dessert and we eke out some space for the sweet end.

The kheer platter, in versions of jaggery, tapioca and gourd, is a celebration of the staple delicacy at Indian homes. The zucchini cake with ice cream is international in look, taste and texture. But we root for the paan-flavoured rasmalai.

Cheese dumplings flavoured with the freshness of betel leaf and other spices, is a masterstroke…

Now that’s enough info, I think, to indulge in Kheer, which, if I may add, is all set to give a stiff time to the Bukharas and Dum Pukhts.